Paese
Posted on February 29, 2012 by TOFoodReviews Staff in King West
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3 stars
- Relatively new to the King West theatre district, and across the street from the Bell Lightbox, is Paese. New to the neighbourhood, but not new to the restaurant scene, Paese has been operating out of their Bathurst street location since 1989. Serving up Italian comfort food in a casual but sleek atmosphere, Paese might give longtime district resident Kit Kat some competition.
With a monochromatic colour scheme, butcher block tables and exposed brick, Paese is very welcoming, even for someone who happened to be dining alone (see: yours truly).
My server brought the customary bread to the table…but this was no ordinary bread and oil. The bread itself was warm and chewy with a pretzel like flavour. It came with an olive, rosemary and thyme tapenade that was rich and salty. I tried to stop after one slice, but failed miserably. I managed to leave one out of the four slices on the plate but I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t staring at it longingly throughout dinner.
Next, came my Beet Caprese Salad ($13). Grilled beets came topped with a generous portion of mozzarella di bufala, drizzled with pistachio pesto and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. The combination of flavours and textures worked well together, and it was just a very fresh salad overall. If seasons were characterized by salads this one would be spring. It was filling enough to be my main course, but I wasn’t done yet.
As full of bread and beets as I was, I couldn’t wait for my cavatelli ($13). Hand rolled and made with semolina it had a texture similar to gnocchi but it wasn’t as filling. The sauce was reminiscent of my grandmothers, and that’s a compliment as although she wasn’t Italian, she was married to one and had learned a thing or two over the years.
I had initially sent away the wine menu, although I’m not sure why exactly. Maybe it was an unexpected burst of responsibility on my part as it was a weekday afternoon and I had another review to do…but those are hardly excuses not to partake. It’s part of the job after all. Either way, one of the resident sommeliers saw right through me and insisted on returning the wine menu to my table. Smart man.
Paese has an extensive wine list and while most can only be purchased by the bottle, they do have a comprehensive list that is sold by the glass. Now I’m no expert on wine, but I do drink a lot of the stuff so I know what I like, and I like Amarone. I was given a sample of a 2004 Fumanelli Amarone before committing to a full glass, after which I gave the go ahead for my server to fill ‘er up. Rich and full-bodied it was a great complement to my meal, but as far as I’m concerned it would be a great complement to anything…cheese, pasta, breakfast…
Because of its location, I probably won’t make a repeat visit but I don’t think Paese is having a hard time attracting other customers. I would recommend it to anyone who wants to have a good and affordable meal with some vino before or after catching a show.
Brassaii
Posted on August 13, 2011 by TOFoodReviews Staff in King West
4 stars
- We visited Brassaii during Summerlicious this year and their selections were fabulous. Prior to ordering our meals, we focused our attention on their specialty cocktail list which featured several special mixed drinks and Caesars. I wish we could have tried them all. Instead, I settled for a tasty Gin Caesar topped off with a slice of cucumber and a grape tomato; while my date enjoyed a Balsamic Bramble: a sweet mixture of gin, chambord, and champagne crested with some fresh fragrant berries.
Chowing down for dinner after taking the edge off; I ordered a sweet flavoured vichyssoise topped with a chive creme fraiche as my appetizer; sirloin steak frites served perfectly to my liking with a sensational chimichurri sauce that sent a wave of excitement through my taste buds accompanied by perfectly seasoned Yukon fries; and although I normally pass on dessert; I, thankfully, let the temptation of their dark chocolate raspberry delice overtake my sanity to perfectly cap off my dining experience.
My date enjoyed two crab cakes served with curry aioli and mango salsa as her appetizer which looked very tasty, and I suspect they were SO tasty, and that was probably the reason I wasn’t even afforded a nibble. Her entree was a filet of baked salmon seared to pink perfection, with a pureed mash of wasabi potato and fennel, presented elegantly next to a julienne citrus salad; and, as her sweet tooth is always stimulated, this time she enjoyed an almond butter cake topped with freshly sliced strawberries and a Brassaii specialty their home-made basil ice cream.
All in all, I definitely wouldn’t hesitate to recommend Brassaii. It’s a true neighbourhood gem that isn’t as hard to find; it’s located just 100 metres west of Spadina Avenue on the south side of King Street West.
- Guest Contributor
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Grindhouse
Posted on March 12, 2011 by TOFoodReviews Staff in King West
5 stars
- I am in love…
How do I know? I paid $22 for a burger lunch and am absolutely ok with it.
Grindhouse is serious carnivore territory.
The first thing to stand out, though, was my drink. I went for my usual diet cola and I got, “Sorry we don’t have anything with aspartame.” In fact, you shouldn’t go there expecting to get your go-to big brand soft drink at all. Well, well, well I better go for something really interesting then. Boylan’s Birch Beer – a root beer drink, sweetened with cane sugar, with pure vanilla extract and only one preservative (sodium benzoate, typically used in soft drinks and other acidic preserves). Their amazing dedication to fresh and natural ingredients obviously did not end there.
All of the ingredients are local and fresh, the burger meat comes from naturally raised livestock and is Genetically Modified Organism, hormone and antibiotic-free. You will not find anything that has refined sugars, or artificial sweeteners (hence the lack of Coca-Cola and Pepsi on the premises). They literally prepare everything in-house. The buns are made there and they also make the ketchup and mustard themselves, right in the back kitchen. The “fresh and never frozen” attitude is not good enough here; if you’re going to do it, do it right.
Their burger creations are unique and creative; a turkey burger with black truffles and cranberries, yes they do have a veggie burger and it’s soy-free and, my choice, the black and blue burger are just a few of the menu items. I was presented with a Cajun spiced beef patty smothered in blue cheese sauce and cooked only to medium, with a side of onion rings (who was I kidding with that diet cola anyway).
If you can be sure of the meat quality, requesting a burger cooked less than well-done will give you much more flavour and a better texture. On my first bite there was an immediate rush of barbecue charcoal flavour emanating from the patty; it tasted like summertime. The blue cheese sauce was mild and, considering the Cajun description, it was spiced, not spicy. The onion rings were huge and somehow satisfyingly greasy but unbelievably crispy.
I actually don’t often talk about presentation because, frankly, it’s all about the taste for me. I have eaten enough beautiful yet disappointing and ugly yet amazing dishes to spend much time considering plating. However, the simple beauty of this burger and onion rings dish was lovely – just a white plate and a burger, without a toothpicked-pickle piercing the bun. Lovely.
Much like my University professors, I hesitate to give out a “perfect” score and I can’t on good conscious say that this was the very best burger in the city, but – a big but – they gave me something pretty darn close to the best burger around and the attention paid to good, fresh and healthful ingredients truly impressed me.
Their name might be harsh and gory, but you’ll find burger-fare inside that is gentle and kind to you and your body.
- Nicole
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Ultimate Cafe
Posted on February 13, 2011 by TOFoodReviews Staff in King West
3 stars
- I came to Ultimate Café by accident. In a desperate attempt to finally darken the doorway of Hey Lucy, I was disheartened to find that going right after work is not nearly early enough to snag a table for cheap martini Wednesday at that popular King West spot. Enter stage-right, Ultimate Café (a bit of Entertainment District fun for you there). Whether coincidentally or strategically, they also offer their own cheap martini Wednesday – how clever.
Their menu is fairly standard, including soups, nachos, sandwiches and Paninis, pastas and salads and they say the ingredients are bought fresh daily from Kensington Market.
After my first meal, I decided to do some reading and collect the thoughts from others before making my final decision on Ultimate. The reviews are mixed, and I have to agree with that sentiment.
I’ve now been to Ultimate twice, once for dinner and once for lunch. The night of the martinis, I decided to make a meal of appetizers – a favourite thing of mine to do. I had the spring rolls and the sweet potato and lemongrass soup. I wasn’t disappointed in the least; the spring rolls were crunchy and hot and the soup, though a tad too sweet for my own taste (always a risk for sweet potato dishes), was flavourful, thick and rich. It was a satisfying meal but, much like the menu, was basic stuff.
Then, I went back for lunch….
We started with the nachos which turned out to be a delight. They look completely unimpressive, but once you dive in you’ll realize that there is just the right amount of melted cheese, neither scorched or soggy, and it’s topped lightly with chopped lettuce, tomato, olives and jalapeno. I have come across some online grumbles about the portion sizes, but any more and it would have proven far too big for a two-person starter or a one-person meal. My entrée was the Montreal smoked meat Panini with a side salad. The Panini was my favourite dish there by far. The meat was warm and tender and, again, was not over-sized. The sandwich was obviously freshly pressed and there was a tangy mustard spread topping it off. But, here’s the rub – the salad was small and the leaves were wilted, which is a common complaint across the boards about their greens and the dressing could not possibly have been made in-house. It maybe could have passed for garnish. A really top-notch side could have elevated this dish to be lunch-time excellence. Like the portions, the prices are decent, with both of my visits coming in at just around $20 per person
There is one very short footnote-type comment that I must leave you with. On both occasions I was greeted by an employee whom I can only assume is the host. He will nab you on the street when you stop to glance at the menu to convince you to come in and, though he means well, will be extremely present during your time there. I can’t say it was bothersome enough to warrant a phone call, but I also cannot give you my recommendation without mentioning this very obvious addition to the dining experience at Ultimate.
So, I toyed with a 2-star vs. my decided upon 3-star rating. The decor is kind of cool, the service was fast and courteous, despite the over-attentive host and we were seated in no time on a busy night. They offer some pretty good, if not somewhat lack-lustre grub, with at least one amazing sandwich.
Just doors down from the previously reviewed Joe Mamas, King West is turning out to be a favourite food stop for me.
- Nicole
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Lou Dawg’s Southern Sandwiches
Posted on January 17, 2011 by TOFoodReviews Staff in King West
2 stars
- Food, like fashion, has a lot to do with trends. Every couple of years some new ingredient or dish seems to capture the attention of cooks everywhere. Someone does it well, and then soon niche restaurants seem to be popping up everywhere.
A number of years ago, it was the burrito, soon the poutine became chic.
Lately it seems like everyone needs to prove they have the best Southern-style barbeque.
On a recent Saturday night, I had the opportunity to eat at Lou Dawg’s; Southern Sandwiches at King and Portland in the Entertainment District. Nestled in the basement, Lou Dawg’s seems to be punching above its weight. It has a fairly small front of house, and on this night, a third of that front of house seemed to be taken up by an impromptu stage while the sound and light guys were setting up. And once they did, it was loud! Not only that, it wasn’t even music. The sound system was blaring an audio feed from the football game projected on the large screen on the opposite wall. Despite that, the place was buzzing. Pretty much all the tables were full and the young-ish crowd that was there seemed to be happy enough, with tables full of plates and pints.
With our large order placed at the bar, we watched a group clear out and quickly snagged the table. No sooner did he drop off our pints did our food arrive. It was super quick, and it couldn’t have been more than five minutes. My guests and I ordered the gamut of the menu: pulled chicken, beef brisket, and pulled pork sandwiches with potato salad, coleslaw and a ‘Loutine’ (poutine with pulled pork). Everything looked great…
The pulled pork had a pleasant smoky flavour and was quite juicy and moist, but after a couple of bites it seemed to be very one note; there wasn’t that nice tang you get with true southern barbeque. The pulled chicken was very dry. This is a dish most people have difficulty doing well, and I don’t think Lou Dawg’s is any different. It seemed like it had been sitting around for a while… waiting for someone to order it… The beef brisket was popping with flavour. It was succulent, with just the right amount of fattiness. If you’re there, I highly recommend it.
Side dishes is where Lou Dawg’s really shines. Their coleslaw is creamy, sweet and crisp, with dried cranberries and raisins. And the potato salad? Truly made with love. It burst with flavours of dill and mustard seed, and the potatoes were cooked to the perfect texture.
The small poutine was quite a large portion. The fries were as they should be: crisp and fresh tasting with a hefty salting. If the cheese was curds, you couldn’t tell. They had lost all of their consistency from over heating. The chicken gravy was way too salty and overpowered the mild flavour on the pulled pork.
Overall, Lou Dawg’s didn’t live up to the hype. I’ve had better Southern barbeque at places that don’t specialize in it, and way better at places that do. Coupled with that, the restaurant seemed a little unsure of itself. Is it trying to be a restaurant? a sports bar? or a neighbourhood performance space? or just a hangout for friends of the staff? This indecision usually sounds the death knell of any place. So while the sides and brisket made it a place worth returning to, there wasn’t much keeping me from going somewhere else.
- Guest Contributor
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Joe Mama’s
Posted on January 15, 2011 by TOFoodReviews Staff in King West
4 stars
- Despite all of the new multi-story buildings going up in the area, the Entertainment district is still full of lively, exciting, cool and truly unique places to check out; from the theatres to the restaurants, it is a great area to spend a night or two and explore. I hesitate to say I “stumbled” upon this particular location as it is quite visible across from the main strip of theatres on this part of King Street, but I did enter on quite the spontaneous whim.
Their contemporary and inviting atmosphere is infused with Motown and Blues décor and music, which sets the mood perfectly for their southern dishes. They offer up a nicely balanced menu of traditional Cajun-style grub and the more typical Canadian restaurant fare; from fish and fried foods galore, to goat-cheese-adorned salads and honey-garlic chicken, there really is something for everyone.
I popped in early and was greeted with the notice of half-priced appetizers before 8:00 p.m. – a great opportunity to try a couple. There are plenty of barbecued chicken, rib and steak platters to choose from, but what could be more appropriate than their cornmeal crusted catfish sticks? I had them with the goat cheese and Cajun-roasted pistachio salad, and it turned out to be a delightful meal.
The catfish sticks are a must. After I ordered, a small plate with one tiny morsel of something arrived in front of me – this was worrisome. Thankfully, it was just a mini-muffin sized, mildly sweet portion of cornbread (a side note: not enough restaurants give you complimentary bread at the table anymore; it does not have to be an overflowing basket of buns, but just a small bite of something light and delicious starts the meal off right). When the fish did arrive, I was more than impressed with the serving size. They were light and crispy and with smokey-sweet Cajun spice and served a tangy tartar sauce.
The salad had a hint of that same Cajun spice on the pistachios, but was otherwise just as expected for greens, except for one crucial detail – the copious amount of cheese! Finally, a restaurant after my own dairy-loving heart! I have too often overpaid for goat-cheese-promising pastas and salads that have fallen short. Joe Mamas, on the other hand, gave me a meal-size salad, with more than my fair share of cheese, and all at half-price no less!
I eased myself into my first southern cuisine experience with a dinner of appetizers, worried that I might be confronted with an over-spiced and over-fried spread. Thankfully proven wrong, on my next visit to Joe Mamas, I’ll be diving into their menu with less hesitancy.
- Nicole
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